Rice terraces are synonymous with
Bali and the dominant part of the scenery. Rice farming in Bali dates back to
Neolithic times. Bali’s steep mountains and deep gorges make wet rice farming
difficult, so the Balinese have developed an intricate system of terraced rice
fields, governed by a subak (water sharing community).
Balinese also believe that Dewi
Sri, the Goddess of rice, must be honoured and shrines are set up in every
sawah to honour her. The Balinese believe that Dewi Sri dwells in every stalk
of rice and during harvesting Balinese women use a small curved knife hidden in
their palm, cutting only a few stalks with every cut so not to scare Dewi Sri.
Rice means life to the Balinese and is much more than something to fill a
belly. Rice has 3 names: When still in the sawah its called padi, in the sack
it is beras, on the plate its nasi.
Visitors to Bali have an
abundance of places and attractions to visit besides the chaos of shopping and
partying in the tourist strip. Bali is renowned for its numerous temples and
other places of worship. However, wherever visitors go into the countryside on
day trips it is inevitable they will see the rice terraces that adorn the faces
of hills and mountains, the higher you go in elevation on the island, the more
spectacular the rice terraces. These terraces are a classic feature on the
landscape of Bali and are the rice cultivation on varying levels that follow
the natural contours of the escarpments. These rice terraces off some of the
most spectacular panoramas and most are, breathtaking.
I have always found the best
times to photograph these magnificent views is either early in the morning or
late in the afternoon. During these times the sun is less harsh and enables the
richness of the colours to be more defined.
Tegallalang: The 7klm stretch of road leading northwards from Ubud
to Pujung passes through Tegallalang; without a doubt the finest view in Bali.
The rice padi views are in the valley located in a kilometre stretch along the
road are a tourist drawcard. You will certainly know when you have arrived at
this spot by the numerous cars and tourist buses crammed onto the side of the
road.
One thing you must remember in
this place is crossing the road to obtain a good vantage point to take your
fotos. Many times over the years I have seen tourists crossing aimlessly and
nearly becoming a bonnet ornament. There are several vantage points located
down a few steps to shops and warungs.
Naturally, the owners will
attempt to sell you their wares but, even worse are the hawkers on the road who
literally shove artefacts into your face. Just ignore them. It can get fairly
busy here and at times competitive for the best places to take fotos of the
view. Just enjoy!
Abang & Ngis: One place on the east coast of the island that is
seldom seem by regular tourists that, in my opinion, is the most stunning and
beautiful panoramic view of rice fields on the whole island is a place called
Ngis, a small village barely visible from the main road.
If you travel to Amlapura on the
east coast then head north from there to the village of Abang, just in between
these two places you will come to a sharp bend in the road and here you will
find the heavenly view. There are small gravel places to park off the side of
the road. The best time to really appreciate this stunning panorama is late
afternoon and an ideal time for taking photos here.
Rendang: an area where you
will find few travellers; an area where the locals look at you with suspicion
and wonder. The scenery is nothing short of spectacular; narrow roads weaved
through the lush, green jungle, the road seemingly disappearing as you descend
and then suddenly rise to another panorama of jungle growth inter-dispersed
with ramshackle houses and patches of rice paddies.
It was my outright curiosity and
with the aid of a strategically placed sign half-buried in the jungle that
caused me to turn down the narrow path and descend into a wide open area where
I found the Lereng Agung Restoran. The view is stunning.
Deep in the valley below was a
patchwork of paddy fields stretching as far as the eye could see; a collar of
high trees the edge and above all this rising out of it all the mighty Gunung
Agung; Bali’s highest mountain and on its slopes the sacred mother temple of
Pura Besakih.
Jataluwih: Located in the region of Tabanan, Jataluwih is the most
striking examples of terraced agriculture in the world. The road north from
Tabanan to Jataluwih takes you through some of the most famous rice-paddy views
on the island. There are expansive panoramas over the gently sloping terraces
and it truly is surreal. It is, without a doubt, Bali’s oldest and most complex
example of the Subak rice terrace system of agriculture.
Located in vary convenient places
along the road are some great, small restorans to sit and view the splendour.
After you have completes all your photography of this stunning place then I
would recommend sitting in the Jataluwih Café and enjoying a cold one whilst
watching the sunset.
Belimbing: On the road north to Pupuan is a small place called
Belimbing and although you really can’t see the village from the road you will
see an isolated warung that is a great place for a rest stop.
When you walk through the back of
the shop to the rear of the premises there are some shaded wooden tables and
chairs. It’s not the delightful setting or the lovely gardens that are
appealing but rather the fabulous views of terraced ricefields at the rear of
the place.
What I found most intriguing
about this place are the massive fruit bats that hang from a small tree in the
courtyard. I walked right past them without even noticing. The other nice thing
about this place is that they sell a fabulous collection of packaged spices and
nuts.
Kekeran: On the road north of Pupuan I came across a great view. As
you enter the Kapbupaten of Buleleng along the main Antosari to Mayong road
there is a small village, Kekeran. Just off the side of the road you will
notice a small one table warung hastily put together with a few old planks and
sheets of iron roofing. It is owned by a cheery fellow, Nyoman. His wife is
quick to sell you freshly cut Papaya, Mango, and Watermelon and the most
delicious Krupuk Pisang, or sliced and fried banana.
But it is the view from the
mountain road that is the attraction. Below in the valley expanse, a river
winds its way through there, the terraced padi fields symetrically line the
faces of the mountains and fields, emerald green and the sheaths of padi sway
in the light breeze.
From the warung you can see as
far as ten kilometres and even the road you were just on to get to this point.
Nyoman was telling me he has had this spot for five years and delights in
meeting all the visitors who come to his plot of soil. It is a great place to
stop for a rest, satiate your thirst and imbibe in some fresh fruit whilst
being spoilt by the beauty before your eyes.
